

"Wouldn't it be fun to open a street stall somewhere?"
This proposal was made by the editor- in-chief of KJ, which is yours
truly. The one who was being asked was Masahiro Kawabe, a creator
of accessories introduced in vol. 4"VIVA SHIMOTSUI," who carves
rings out of stainless steel nuts. It all began in a Kojima café, Womb,
where KJ's editorial office was previously located. The idea suddenly
popped out from an idle conversation.
"Why not let people see the process of making the rings, instead of
just selling them."
"That sounds fun."
"Might as well do it somewhere overseas."
Casually mentioning going out of the country proved I wasn't that
serious. Where was I going to find that kind of money anyway?But
then, where in this whole wide world was there an artist who thinks of
making a ring out of a nut (purely handmade without the aid of
machinery)? I was interested, to a certain extent, how this unique idea,
advanced skills, and quality of work would be accepted abroad.
"Where, overseas, do you think it should be?"
"London and Paris doesn't sound right. It isn't LA or NY, either…hey,
how about Mexico?"
Autumn 2008, approximately a year after this irresponsible chatter
took place, the three of us, Kawabe and I, along with photographer
Masahiro Ikeda, took off from Kansai Airport to Mexico. This tour to
Mexico became reality merely by impulse before we knew it. Kawabe
was probably the most stunned among us. At 32 years old, this was his
first time out of the country.
The third morning after leaving Japan, we boarded a long distance bus
in Mexico City and headed south. Four hours later, a town of houses
with whitewashed walls and orange tile roofs closely covering an entire
surface of a steep slope appeared. The sight of Taxco, our destination,
was truly breathtaking.
This town which flourished as one of Mexico's silver producing
districts still has many stores that sell silver products and is a popular
tourist destination. The town is about half the size of Kojima
(population 30,000). It had a good rustic old look that fell far short
from the sophistication of Mexico City, therefore bringing us comfort.
We went out into the town shortly after our arrival. A three hour
stroll told us that there was hardly any space to set up a stall to display
Kawabe's work and its process. "Zocaro," an open space located in the
center of town which we marked as a possible candidate on the map
was not the kind of place where a street stall could be set up without
proper permission. "What do we do now?" Both Kawabe who was
being asked this question as well as I who asked it were totally lost, as we sat together on a bench at the Zocaro.
Partly lost, we entered a café, never expecting that the answer to our
problem awaited us there.
The café was on an alley that runs right next to Santa Prisca Church,
which has every luxury imaginable from the mid-18th century and was
located in the center of the town. The level narrow alley surrounded
by the church wall and stores had posts on its south end preventing
cars from entering. This allowed the alley to remain quiet, but the
flow of local people and tourists never stopped. "Dora's Café" was the
name of the place. Walking past a narrow entrance lined with souvenirs
on display, a spacious bright space facing a courtyard appeared. There
we were greeted.
"Hey guys, how are you doing?"
The first native English we heard since reaching Mexico. The voice
was that of a man occupying a table by the window with features that
reminded me of Nick Nolte. He was wearing his hair in a ponytail
which became him. He introduced himself as Storm. We later
learned that Storm had immigrated from Canada and was one of the
foreign customers who regularly gathered at the café. We returned his
greeting, told him we were from Japan, and that we were having
trouble finding a place for Kawabe to open a street stall.
"Do it in front of this store, then.
He said carelessly, then immediately started making arrangements
with David, the owner of the café (Dora was the name of his wife).
David, who was Mexican, appeared with a bottle of beer in his hand
offering to help with a smile.
"Of course it's OK. You can use the tables or chairs or whatever's
available here. Let me know if there's anything more you need."
We got hold of the best location under the best conditions on the day
we arrived in Taxco.
Day one of business: At 9 in the morning, we set up a table outside of
Dora's Café to display Kawabe's works. Each piece of work carried a
price tag that was prepared the previous day. A sentence introducing
Kawabe translated into Spanish by David was also displayed. Last but
not least, the vise we carried from Japan was attached to the end of the
table.
"Can I start filing?"
Kawabe asked as soon as we were set up.
"I haven't filed for nearly a week now, and I can hardly wait."
The metallic sound made by the rasp echoed through the quiet
morning alley. It was the sound of a stick shaped rasp smoothing the
gap inside a nut. Next, a flat rasp was used to file away the corners of the hexagon. There was no excess movement in Kawabe's motions who
has been doing only this for the last decade. Soon the tourists started
showing up here and there, and there were often people around the
table to watch. Every time a guest showed up, Kawabe would show
them a brand new nut and explain the process of his work by gesture.
When that was done, he went back to filing again. He spent all
afternoon filing and by dusk the pieces were ready for polishing. It
was an image "that came to mind after arriving in Mexico" put into
shape. Storm commented staring at the ring which he held in his
hand:
"Beautiful. There's no beginning or end."
His words precisely described the distinctive characters of the design
of Kawabe's rings. This must have made Kawabe realize that there was
somebody in Mexico that understood his work in depth.
Day two, Kawabe's work speeded up. The ring he started working on
that morning was finished by two in the afternoon. He immediately
began working on a second ring for that day.
It was a Saturday, and the number of people who stopped to watch
outnumbered that of the previous day. There were positive reactions.
"Bonito! (Beautiful!)" person after person said when they saw the
rings on the table. However, even with the reasonable price that took
into consideration the locale, no sale was made.
As it turned out, there were no sales for the first two days. That did not
slow down Kawabe. His expression was rather livelier. Sunday, the
last day, Kawabe spoke while preparing to open the street stall:
"I feel we'll make a sale today.
He was right. A Japanese woman who was on vacation in Taxco from
the Dominican Republic came to order a ring the moment we began
business. A Japanese person learns of Kawabe for the first time in a remote corner of Mexico and wears his ring-----. I later learned that
Kawabe was deeply touched with this wonderful encounter. This first
order seemed to be the cue, for in the afternoon a native Taxco silver
smith bought a necklace, followed by an American female tourist who
purchased a ring. (Kawabe had finished filing his third ring of the day
by that time.) In addition, a French female tourist purchased a ring
and a bracelet at dusk near then end of trade.
Kawabe, of course, was pleased that his accessories were sold. Supersed
ing that was his feeling of great relief that he was able to complete
three works inspired by Mexico.
"I was worried that I might not come up with anything. I'm surprised
that I was able to finish three works. This town was really stimulating,
and there couldn't have been a better location than this. I'd like to
thank David, Dora, and Storm from the bottom of my heart.
Morning on the following day, which was a Monday, Kawabe concen
trated on polishing his three rings at the hotel balcony. He also did so-
from early morning Tuesday. Finally, in the afternoon that day, all
each titled "chaos," "vivo," and "stone alley."
David, as usual, was drinking his seventh or eighth bottle of beer of
that day. Storm joined us shortly. The two were wearing the necklaces
and bracelets Kawabe gave them as a present on Sunday right after
closing our street stall. The two looked at the three rings admiringly
and said, "we're happy that such a wonderful work was completed in
this town."
After that, we did nothing in particular, but hung around at the café
until the sun went down. Dora's café was as comfortable as if you were
at home, and the people there felt like your long-time friends.