
People of Kyoto drink coffee quite a lot. Those who prefer black tea are rare. Not that I've done any research on the subject; but coming from me,a person making a living out of meeting numerous "genuine Kyotojins" every day, I can't be mistaken. I might as well go ahead and restate that "People of Kyoto are coffee lovers (as much as they love Japanese green tea)." Moreover,every coffee lover in Kyoto has his or her favorite kissaten.
One example is Inoda Coffee,known for its catch phrase: "Kyoto's morning begins with Inoda." Another is Smart Coffee Shop,in business since 1932,that serves good western-style dishes. There is also Rokuyosha,whose customers are clearly divided into those who support the main store run by the father,who sticks to cloth filtered drip,and those who support the basement store run by the son,who sticks to house-roasted beans. Shinshin-do by the north gate of Kyoto University stands out among the rest for its academicism ... there are enough stories to hijack the entire Vol.7 of KJ with these classic kissatens alone.
That is why I was truly bewildered by the instruction from the Editor-in-Chief of KJ to "prepare an 800 word story,accompanied by one photograph of a kissaten that represents Kyoto,based on your judgment." What makes a kissaten "represent" Kyoto anyway? History? Taste? Recognition? After many cups of coffee contemplating the subject,I came up with the answer: Soirée, the kissaten in blue; a tranquil space without music,gently protected by blue lights. One does not have to learn of the details of the shop,which began in 1948. By just sitting there,you sense the wide range of personal relationships and good taste in art its first owner must have had; and the quiet passion and pride of his son,who tends the store today,without changing his father's style. While it is sufficiently modern,it also shares the historical spirit of a traditional Kyoto shop -- and there's the timeless comfort it offers. This is unquestionably a Kyoto kissaten.
As I inform the waitress that the shoot is done,the familiar voice of the owner reaches me. "Why don't you have a good hot cup of coffee before you leave?" There is a refined aroma from a coffee served in blue,and eating jelly punch by the window makes me feel like a grownup girl. (by Maki Takahashi,Kyoto correspondent)